Indian Town’s Abandoned European-Style Mansions: A Glimpse Into Its Opulent Past
A Hidden Architectural Gem
The journey to Sidhpur, a historic town in Gujarat, India, offers little indication of its hidden treasures. The dusty highway, flanked by arid landscapes and roadside eateries, suddenly gives way to a striking sight—a street lined with grand, European-inspired mansions in vibrant pastel shades.
This area, known locally as Paris Galli or Paris Street, features a unique blend of Neoclassical, Art Deco, Baroque, and traditional Indian architectural styles. Despite its rich heritage, Sidhpur remains largely undiscovered by travelers and architecture enthusiasts.
A Legacy of Wealth and Influence
The town’s magnificent mansions, known as havelis, were built by the Dawoodi Bohras, a Shia Muslim trading community that settled in Gujarat in the 11th century. With their strong ties to Europe, Africa, and the Middle East, the Bohras accumulated wealth through trade in spices, gems, and perfumes.
In the early 20th century, the Maharaja of Baroda, Sayajirao Gaekwad III, granted the Bohras land in response to a housing shortage. Influenced by Scottish urban planner Patrick Geddes, the area was designed with strict planning rules, resulting in uniform yet distinct streetscapes.
Architectural Marvels of Sidhpur
The havelis of Sidhpur, primarily found in the Najampura district, showcase intricate designs:
- Material & Structure: Built with wood, brick, and plaster, these mansions are designed to withstand earthquakes.
- Distinctive Features: Gabled roofs, carved doors, pilasters, and ornate overhanging jharokha windows.
- Interior Grandeur: Chandeliers, Belgian glass, Persian carpets, dark mahogany furniture, and antique decor.
- Unique Layout: Homes typically feature five linear sections, ensuring privacy and ventilation.
Cultural Reflections in Design
Photographer Sebastian Cortés, in his series Sidhpur: Time Present Time Past, captured the melancholic beauty of these historic homes. According to architect Zoyab A. Kadi, Sidhpur’s architecture is a fusion of Western elements crafted by Hindu artisans, tailored to an Islamic way of life.
Many of these mansions, with names like Zainab Mansion and Kagalwala Manor, reflect their original owners’ identities. Standouts include:
- Zaveri House (House with 365 Windows): Now in desperate need of restoration.
- Teen Khuniya (Three-Cornered House): Recognized for its unique triangular structure.
The Threat of Disappearing Heritage
In the 1970s, Sidhpur boasted at least 1,400 of these grand mansions. However, post-India’s independence, many Bohras migrated abroad, leaving their homes in the care of relatives or caretakers. Over time:
- Many houses fell into disrepair or were demolished.
- Antiques and timber were sold off.
- Legal disputes over ownership stalled restoration efforts.
- Today, fewer than 400 havelis remain inhabited.
Preserving Sidhpur’s Architectural Heritage
To combat this decline, the Sidhpur Heritage Collective was founded in 2024 by Kadi and others. The initiative aims to:
- Document the town’s rich architectural history.
- Conduct workshops and guided tours.
- Advocate for conservation efforts, despite the absence of protective heritage laws in India.
While attempts to repurpose the mansions as homestays or cultural hubs have yet to gain momentum, Kadi remains hopeful: “Sidhpur has more to offer than just its mansions—from a rich culinary culture to temples and mosques. The preservation of its heritage depends on public will and funding.”
As time takes its toll on these architectural wonders, the urgency to protect Sidhpur’s unique cultural legacy grows stronger. Without intervention, this extraordinary town may fade into history, leaving only memories of its grand past.
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