Garrett McNamara on the Wipeout That Changed Everything: ‘I Don’t Have to Ride Every Swell Anymore’
For world-renowned big wave surfer Garrett McNamara, fear has never been part of the equation. Known for chasing colossal walls of water and starring in HBO’s 100 Foot Wave, McNamara once held the world record for surfing the largest wave ever—an astonishing 78-foot monster off the coast of Nazaré, Portugal.
But even the most fearless surfers face waves they don’t see coming.
A Life-Changing Crash
In 2016, during a session at the notorious Mavericks break near San Francisco, McNamara’s career came to a painful halt. A devastating wipeout shattered his shoulder into ten pieces. What followed wasn’t just months of physical recovery—it was a deep plunge into emotional darkness.
“It was the most challenging six months of my life,” McNamara told CNN. His wife, Nicole, echoed the sentiment, calling it a turning point for both their marriage and his mental health. “That accident began a very long journey of depression,” she said.
Nicole, who had stayed home with their young son at the time, recalled getting a simple message saying Garrett had been injured. “He wasn’t chasing waves for the right reasons anymore,” she reflected. “He was trying to prove something—to the wrong people.”
A New Perspective
Nearly a decade later, McNamara says that injury reshaped his entire outlook.
“It totally changed me,” he shared. “Now, I’m doing better than I ever have on land. I’ve let go of the pressure to ride every swell around the world. The monkey’s off my back.”
These days, it’s about intention and presence. “I’m focused on being with my family, slowing down, doing things with purpose—things that never came naturally to me before,” he added.
Surfing Through Life Together
McNamara’s life still revolves around the ocean, but it’s no longer just about the next big wave. Together with Nicole—his opposite in many ways—they’ve turned their partnership into a balance of adventure and grounding.
“She’s the grounding force I never had,” he said. “And I’m the freedom and excitement she craves.”
That dynamic plays out not only in their daily life but also on-screen. Now in its third season, 100 Foot Wave explores not only the thrill of surfing but the personal costs—loss, injury, resilience—and the tight-knit community that supports it.
Raising Ocean-Loving Kids
Garrett and Nicole’s kids have inherited their love for the water. But McNamara is cautious when it comes to his son, Barrel, potentially following in his wake.
“I’m not excited for anyone to follow in my footsteps,” he admitted. “But if Barrel does, I’ll make sure he’s more prepared than I ever was.”
What’s Next?
Even if 100 Foot Wave eventually wraps, McNamara’s bond with the ocean remains unbreakable.
“I won’t ride horses or jump out of planes,” he laughed. “But I’ll always be in the ocean. I’ll ride big waves ‘til the end—even if it’s vicariously through mentoring, or by driving the jet ski. I can do that forever.”
Source: CNN – ‘It changed me’: Big wave surfer Garrett McNamara on the wipeout that altered his perspective
