The Ultimate Powder Paradise

I find myself deep in the trees, thigh-deep in powder, struggling through the snow. Instead of riding my board, I’m carrying it, muttering about taking the wrong line. Meanwhile, just 20 feet below, Chris Laurent from Paris has his own dilemma.

“I can’t find my ski,” he exclaims, both laughing and swearing as he digs through a growing mound of fresh snow.

These are the challenges that skiers and snowboarders dream of—and pay to experience.

Welcome to Niseko, the powder capital of Asia, and some say, the world.

Japan has long been revered as a mecca for powder skiing. However, in recent years, warming winters, declining snowfall, and a shrinking number of local skiers and snowboarders have threatened its once-thriving resorts.

But this season brought renewed excitement. With the La Niña weather pattern—a period of cooler temperatures—returning, industry insiders anticipated massive snowfalls reminiscent of Niseko’s legendary past. Their hopes were justified. Early in the season, Niseko shattered a 68-year-old record for December snowfall.

After a brief lull in January, February saw an influx of Siberian cold fronts sweeping across the Sea of Japan, dumping fresh powder on Hokkaido’s most famous ski town.

Jia-Rong Chen, a former tech employee from Tokyo, came to Niseko for the season and experienced the town’s signature snowfall firsthand.

“It snows a lot—truly the best quality snow in Japan. Early in the season, I went up every day. But by mid-season, I was almost spoiled. I’d had enough powder already,” he admits.

While snowfall may fluctuate throughout the season, Niseko remains consistent compared to other resorts. Even as Japan’s aging population and declining ski culture have led to hundreds of resort closures, Niseko continues to thrive.

Unlike other struggling resorts, Niseko has seen a surge in foreign visitors and luxury developments. High-end hotels like Setsu Niseko—winner of the World’s Best New Ski Hotel at the 2023 World Ski Awards—and Muwa Niseko are setting new standards for hospitality. Michelin-starred Japanese chefs are also investing in the region, ensuring that Niseko remains not just a ski town but a high-end winter destination.

A key factor behind the area’s snow reliability is the local belief that Mount Yotei—a towering peak resembling Mount Fuji—is a “snow catcher,” ensuring consistent snowfall. Climatologists agree that Niseko’s geography makes it uniquely positioned to receive dry, light powder when Siberian cold fronts collide with the warm moisture of the Sea of Japan.

Despite its consistent snowfall, experts remain cautious about the long-term effects of climate change.

“December temperatures were below normal, but January was abnormally hot. La Niña is rapidly decaying,” says Professor Tomonori Sato, a meteorological researcher from Hokkaido University. “In my hometown of Niigata, the snow is very wet and heavy. But in Hokkaido, it remains dry and light—ideal for skiing.”

Hokkaido’s unique climate, surrounded by water, fuels the weather systems responsible for its legendary powder. While global warming remains a concern, most experts believe Niseko’s appeal will endure.

Before the pandemic, Niseko was often referred to as an “Aussie town,” with Australians making up about 50% of visitors. Today, that figure has dropped to just over 20%, but overall visitor numbers have surged, with more travelers coming from North America, Europe, and beyond.

“The biggest shift for us has been the rise of American visitors,” says Patrick Ohtani, COO of Luxe Nomad, which manages high-end properties across Asia. “In 2017, U.S. visitors accounted for only 619 guest nights. This year, we’ve booked 4,823 nights—an increase of 404%. Revenue from U.S. travelers has jumped by 130%.”

The introduction of the IKON pass, which grants skiers seven days of unrestricted access to Niseko United, has contributed to this growth. More American skiers, even those with access to world-class resorts back home, are now flying halfway around the globe to experience Niseko’s unparalleled powder.

A stroll through Hirafu, Niseko’s most upscale ski village, reveals just how much the town has transformed. Preening influencers snap selfies in luxury snowsuits, while others sip champagne in a Louis Vuitton-designed yurt. Michelin-starred food trucks serve dumplings, while upscale steakhouses charge $170 for premium cuts.

Heli-ski operators cater to affluent thrill-seekers, and luxury concierge services offer everything from private chef’s tables to exclusive snowmobile tours.

Gone are the days when Niseko was simply called the “Vale of the East” or the “St. Moritz of Japan.” Today, it’s a world-class destination in its own right.

“I’ve been in Niseko for 10 years, and I don’t think we’ve ever had a bad snow year,” says Ohtani. “We’re incredibly lucky—Siberian winds pick up moisture, hit a high-pressure system, and the snow just starts falling. Compared to other ski destinations, our altitude plays a major role.”

For now, Niseko remains bulletproof—an evolving, luxury-laden haven for powder seekers from across the globe. And as long as the snow keeps falling, the legend of Niseko will continue to grow.

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In ski towns across the United States, a new trend is gaining traction — “earning your turns.” This laborious yet rewarding ski practice, which involves ascending mountains without the aid of ski lifts or gondolas, has been gaining popularity among skiers of all levels. What started as a backcountry pursuit is now becoming a mainstream fitness craze in ski resorts across the nation.

What is Uphilling?

“Earning your turns” refers to the act of climbing a mountain under your own power before skiing or snowboarding down. To do this, skiers use specialized gear, including bindings and boots that allow for uphill movement, paired with “skins” — synthetic fabric strips placed on the undersides of skis to provide traction. Some skiers may also hike up with their gear on their backs.

While backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering are the more extreme versions of uphill skiing, a fitness-focused version is now thriving in resort areas, attracting those looking for a good workout and a chance to enjoy fresh tracks before the lifts open for the day.

Uphill Skiing Grows in Popularity

Uphill access at ski resorts has grown significantly in recent years. According to the National Ski Areas Association (NSAA), the number of resorts allowing uphill skiing has nearly tripled over the past decade. In the 2023/24 season, 65% of resorts permitted uphill access in some form, up from just 33% a decade ago.

At some resorts, uphill skiing is allowed only before or after regular operating hours, while others offer access throughout the day. Skiers will often see parallel tracks on the side of the mountain or zig-zagging paths in steeper terrain — all signs of a growing trend.

The Climb and Its Rewards

The concept of uphill skiing is not only about fitness but also about community and camaraderie. In towns like Steamboat Springs, Colorado, where uphill skiing has flourished, locals like Cara Marrs, a dedicated uphiller and dietitian, say it’s become a way to bond with friends.

“It’s huge, really, how much uphilling has grown,” says Marrs, who has lived in Steamboat for 27 years. The resort allows uphill access before 9 a.m. and after 4:30 p.m. daily, with a $39 armband that provides access after completing a safety video and waiver.

“Back in the day, it was more for backcountry skiing. But now people are doing it for fitness,” Marrs explains.

For professional adventure skier Brody Leven, uphilling has become a social activity as much as a fitness challenge. “In the winter, the majority of the way that I and many skiers catch up with our friends is on the skin track, as we call it, which is on the hike up,” says Leven, who is a self-described “entirely human-powered” skier.

Uphill for Fitness and Fun

Uphill skiing, particularly in resort areas, is largely driven by fitness and fun. Skiers like Terrin Abell, a program manager in Breckenridge, Colorado, discovered the joy of uphilling during a full moon ski with friends. “I was hooked from the first time,” Abell says, noting how the sport blends exercise with the thrill of skiing down an empty mountain. “If you go up on a powder day, you’re going to get the most delicious, perfectly groomed first run down.”

Abell now participates in events like the Imperial Challenge in Breckenridge, which involves skiing uphill as part of a spring tradition. “I’ll be in a tutu, I’ll be in a costume. I do these things because I’m in it for the fun,” she says.

Varied Uphill Policies Across Resorts

While many resorts embrace uphilling, policies vary. Some resorts require an additional fee on top of a regular ski pass, while others charge only for a dedicated uphill pass. In places like Aspen Snowmass in Colorado, uphill skiing is permitted at certain hours and with designated routes, offering a more flexible approach.

At Snowbowl in Arizona, uphill access is free but only allowed during specific hours and on designated routes that change with snowmaking, grooming, and weather conditions. In Utah, resorts like Powder Mountain and Alta offer uphill access under varying conditions, with Powder Mountain allowing access during operating hours on designated routes.

Safety and Rules

As with any outdoor activity, safety is paramount. Before heading uphill, skiers should familiarize themselves with resort rules, including designated routes and operational hours. Always yield to downhill skiers and be mindful of grooming and snowmaking equipment. Wearing bright-colored gear enhances visibility, particularly during early morning or evening hours.

While uphilling isn’t for everyone, it offers a unique and rewarding experience for those willing to put in the effort. “The first couple of times, you’re like, ‘Why am I doing this?’” says Abell. “But then the sun comes up, and you get to the top. Then you transition and ski down, and you’re like, ‘Wow, that was the best thing ever.’”

Conclusion

Uphill skiing at US resorts has rapidly evolved from a niche activity for backcountry enthusiasts to a popular fitness trend embraced by a wide range of skiers. Whether for fitness, fun, or a sense of accomplishment, this unique way of enjoying the mountain is here to stay, offering skiers an additional reward for their efforts — fresh tracks and the rush of skiing down before the crowds.

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