The Drink That Defines French Aperitif Culture

Imagine France without its beloved apéro hour—that golden time when the day slows down, and a drink appears in every hand. Across the country, aperitifs vary by region: kir in Burgundy, beer near the Belgian border, and the cloudy, aniseed-infused pastis in Marseille. But one spirit transcends all regional specialties—pastis, France’s undisputed aperitif of choice.

Not just a southern tradition, pastis is enjoyed nationwide, accounting for one-fifth of all spirits sold in France. Even in Picardie, far from the Mediterranean, it remains a staple. But how did pastis rise to such prominence? Its journey is rooted in an unlikely origin—the ban of absinthe in 1915.

Absinthe’s Fall, Pastis’ Rise

Absinthe, once France’s drink of choice, saw widespread consumption after the phylloxera epidemic of the 19th century devastated vineyards. Wine, beer, cider, and quinquina were all temporarily replaced by absinthe, which introduced the ritual of diluting a strong aniseed spirit with water and sugar.

However, absinthe’s association with insanity and addiction led to a nationwide ban in 1915. Suddenly, the French aperitif culture had a void to fill. According to historian Marie-Claude Delahaye, if absinthe had remained legal, pastis might never have existed.

Pastis, though anise-flavored like absinthe, is sweeter, macerated rather than distilled, and has a lower alcohol content (40-45% ABV vs. absinthe’s 75%). This difference was key: pastis provided the same enjoyable aniseed taste and social ritual without the stigma that surrounded absinthe, famously depicted in the paintings of Van Gogh, Manet, Degas, and Toulouse-Lautrec.

Ricard: The Marketing Genius Behind Pastis

Though Henri-Louis Pernod and Jules-Félix Pernod were the first to sell anisettes after the absinthe ban (merging in 1928), it was Paul Ricard who truly made pastis famous.

Launching his version in 1932, Ricard understood branding and storytelling. He named his pastis after the Provençal word pastisson (mixture) and claimed inspiration from a mysterious poacher who knew all the wild herbs of the region.

More importantly, Ricard knew how to market. He went door to door to bistros and cafés, spreading the word. His slogan? “Make a friend a day.”

His most brilliant strategy, however, was merchandising. An artist himself, Ricard created branded posters, glasses, ashtrays, bucket hats, and even playing cards. During the 1948 Tour de France, he distributed thousands of these items. Today, Ricard-branded collectibles are highly sought-after at flea markets, with rare pieces selling for thousands of euros.

The Pastis Ritual: A Simple, Timeless Pleasure

Despite modern mixologists experimenting with pastis-based cocktails, the traditional preparation remains king.

A standard serving of pastis consists of:

• 2cl of pastis,
• A pitcher of water to dilute to taste,
• Optional additions: ice, mint syrup (perroquet), grenadine (tomate), or orgeat (mauresque).

Unlike absinthe, which required a special perforated spoon and sugar cube, pastis is effortless to prepare—one of the reasons it remains so popular.

As cocktail expert Forest Collins puts it:

“Everyone in their house can have a little pitcher, but not everybody is going to go out and get an absinthe fountain and absinthe spoons.”

Pastis: More Than Just a Drink, A French Icon

Pastis is more than just an aperitif; it’s a symbol of French culture, leisure, and conviviality.

In 2022, Ricard wasn’t just the top-selling pastis—it was the top-selling product in all of France’s hypermarkets, outselling mineral water, Coca-Cola, and even Nutella.

As Aurélie Panhelleux, co-founder of CopperBay cocktail bars, notes:

“Pastis is the only spirit in France that people order by brand.”

Or as collector Jacky Roussial, who owns over 3,500 Ricard collectibles, puts it:

“I don’t drink pastis. I drink Ricard.”

For the French, pastis isn’t just a drink—it’s a way of life.

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French customs officials have issued a health warning regarding the consumption of so-called “aphrodisiac honey,” which has been illegally imported and mixed with medications used to treat erectile dysfunction. The warning comes after a significant surge in product seizures in 2024, following a trend observed in recent years.

In one of the largest operations, customs officers intercepted a shipment from Malaysia at the Port of Marseille in November, discovering 860,000 illicit products weighing a total of 13 metric tonnes (14.3 tons). In another investigation, over 238 kilograms (525 pounds) of the adulterated honey were seized from a storage box.

Illegally Imported Products with Dangerous Additives

The honey, often imported from Malaysia, Turkey, and Tunisia, is typically packaged under names such as Black Horse and Bio Max. Sold in various forms such as shots or sticks, these products are marketed with claims of health benefits and are often found in nightclubs and other venues.

What buyers may not know is that these honey products are laced with drugs like sildenafil and tadalafil, which are used to treat erectile dysfunction. Laboratory tests have confirmed the presence of these active ingredients, though the products fail to specify the dosage or warn of any potential side effects or health risks.

Officials have stressed the dangers of consuming these adulterated products, which are often purchased without a prescription. “The consumer is exposed to non-negligible risks in taking this kind of adulterated honey,” a statement from French customs read.

Health Risks and Lack of Regulation

While erectile dysfunction (ED) is common, especially among older men, the medication required to treat it is tightly regulated in France, where doctors must prescribe such drugs. The issue arises when these medications are illegally introduced into products like honey without any oversight, leaving users unaware of the risks involved.

The condition itself is often linked to low testosterone levels but can also result from the use of substances like alcohol, nicotine, and marijuana, which can impact sexual function. While ED drugs counteract these effects, unregulated doses from illicit sources can lead to serious health complications.

A Growing Concern

As the popularity of these so-called aphrodisiac honey products grows, French customs officials have pledged to continue their efforts to crack down on illegal shipments. They urge consumers to remain cautious and avoid purchasing such products, as they may carry significant health risks without the safeguards that come with legitimate prescriptions.

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