Dateland, Arizona — In the heart of the arid Arizona desert, where water is already scarce and under increasing scrutiny, a fish farm is stirring debate. At first glance, it seems improbable: thousands of tropical fish splashing in man-made ponds under the relentless desert sun. But that’s exactly what’s happening at a facility run by Mainstream Aquaculture, an Australia-based company growing barramundi—also known as Asian sea bass—for U.S. restaurants.

They say it’s sustainable. Critics say it’s reckless.

Seafood, But Make It Desert-Grown

Dan Mohring, who oversees day-to-day operations, feeds the fish using a cannon that shoots a blend of ground-up meat and nutrients into the water. Instantly, the surface erupts with hungry barramundi, all destined for dinner plates in a few months.

Mainstream argues that raising fish in the desert can actually reduce the environmental footprint of seafood. By producing domestically, they cut down on emissions from international shipping. Plus, they reuse the nutrient-rich water to irrigate crops like Bermuda grass, which is later sold as cattle feed.

“We’re in the business of water,” said Matt Mangan, who heads the company’s U.S. division. “We want to be here 20, 30 years from now.”

But whether that’s a responsible use of water in a drought-prone state is up for debate.

The Water Problem: Efficient Use or Risky Gamble?

The farm draws from groundwater, not the Colorado River. But that’s hardly reassuring to water experts. Groundwater in Arizona is largely unregulated in rural areas like Dateland and is considered a nonrenewable resource—once it’s gone, it’s gone.

“As long as groundwater is treated as an open resource in these parts of Arizona, they’re vulnerable to industries just coming in and pumping,” said Sarah Porter, director of the Kyl Center for Water Policy at Arizona State University.

And aquaculture is thirsty. Based on the company’s own data, Porter estimates the farm could use as much water as a large ranch—or even a small Phoenix suburb.

Is It Sustainable Aquaculture or Desert Hubris?

Some see potential in aquaculture to ease pressure on overfished oceans and reduce the need to import 80% of U.S. seafood. Others aren’t so sure Arizona is the place to do it.

“Artificial ponds in the desert are stupid,” said Jay Famiglietti, a hydrologist and head of science at ASU’s Arizona Water Innovation Initiative. He points to the massive water losses through evaporation.

Mainstream acknowledges some challenges, particularly in the winter months when pond water loses heat and more water needs to be pumped to maintain the temperature fish need to survive. But they’ve been redesigning ponds to improve insulation and say they’ve cut water use by about 50% in the past year.

They also argue that reusing the wastewater to grow cattle feed adds efficiency—though that comes with its own environmental baggage. “Doing two suboptimal things doesn’t make it better,” Famiglietti said, referring to both aquaculture and supporting the carbon-heavy cattle industry.

What Counts as ‘Reasonable’ Use of Groundwater?

Unlike parts of Arizona that tightly regulate groundwater, Dateland falls outside those zones. The only real rule? Landowners can pump a “reasonable” amount of groundwater. But what’s “reasonable” when it comes to fish farming? Legally, there’s no precedent.

“Whether this is a good use of water depends on what kind of state Arizona wants to be,” said Rhett Larson, a professor of water law at ASU.

Can Farmed Fish Replace Ocean-Caught Seafood?

Many scientists see aquaculture as part of the solution to overfishing, especially if it moves away from using wild fish to feed farmed ones. “We shouldn’t rely on ocean fish to grow fish,” said Pallab Sarker, an aquaculture sustainability expert at UC Santa Cruz.

Still, it’s unclear what exactly goes into the feed used by Mainstream. Mohring and Mangan said their suppliers are Skretting and Star Milling but couldn’t confirm the origins of base ingredients—some of which may still come from wild fish like anchovies and mackerel.

Kevin Fitzsimmons, a University of Arizona professor who mentored the student that started the farm Mainstream acquired, argues the alternative is worse. “We can’t keep hunting and gathering from the ocean,” he said.

Big Ideas, Bigger Trade-Offs

Mainstream hopes to expand by partnering with local farmers to reuse its nutrient-rich wastewater for hay and feed crops. A few have expressed interest.

Still, the broader question remains: Is it wise to raise fish in one of the driest places in the U.S.?

The company sees innovation. Critics see a warning sign. And as Arizona continues to face down climate change and long-term drought, every drop of water—and every decision about how it’s used—counts.

Source: AP News  – In the Arizona desert, a farm raising fish raises questions about water use

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Nestled in the heart of mist-covered mountains, with verdant farmland and mangrove-lined shores, Lai Chi Wo seems worlds away from the urban landscape of Hong Kong. Yet, this 300-year-old village is one of the city’s oldest and most biodiverse settlements, embodying traditional values of sustainability and nature conservation.

A Legacy of Sustainability: Feng Shui in Practice

Lai Chi Wo’s location is no accident. Built by the Hakka people, one of Hong Kong’s pre-colonial indigenous groups, the village is rooted in the philosophies of feng shui — a design practice that integrates natural elements to promote harmony. In Lai Chi Wo, a feng-shui forest is preserved to shelter the village from typhoons, prevent landslides, and manage temperature extremes.

Susan Wong, the village chief, and a lifelong resident, explains, “We maintain the feng-shui forest to protect the village. Our ancestors passed down the tradition to not let anyone cut down the trees.” These trees are more than just a natural buffer — they are a symbol of the bond between the villagers and their environment.

Decline and Abandonment

By the 1960s, the rapid industrialization of Hong Kong led many villagers to seek opportunities elsewhere. Farming, once the backbone of the community, was no longer a sustainable livelihood. “We didn’t even have shoes or clothes to wear,” recalls Wong, who moved to the UK at the age of 15.

As many families emigrated or passed away, Lai Chi Wo became a ghost town. By the 1980s, its homes were crumbling, farmland overtaken by weeds, and wildlife roamed freely.

A Vision for Revival

Despite its abandonment, Lai Chi Wo wasn’t entirely forgotten. In 2009, Chiu Ying Lam, head of the Hong Kong Countryside Foundation, visited the village and was surprised to find several homes well-maintained. “I realized these absentee homeowners were still connected to their ancestral land,” Lam says, sparking the idea of a revitalization project.

In collaboration with NGOs, universities, and government agencies, the “Sustainable Lai Chi Wo” program was born. This decade-long effort has aimed to restore both the village and its surrounding biodiversity. Over HK$100 million ($12.8 million) has been invested in restoring farmland and rebuilding homes, helping to revive the village’s rich cultural and ecological heritage.

New Beginnings

The project not only sought to bring former residents back but also welcomed newcomers. In 2015, Ah Him Tsang and his wife, who were not Hakka, became one of the first families to move to Lai Chi Wo. Seeking a life closer to nature, they raised their son in the village and became active in its agricultural and tourism ventures.

Tsang grows vegetables and cash crops on a small farm, while also offering “Hakka Experience” homestays and a store serving locally grown products, including tea, coffee, and homemade vegan ice cream. “You can really feel the quietness, the serenity of nature here,” says Tsang, emphasizing the slow pace of life that has become the village’s unique charm.

The Return of the Original Residents

The revitalization has encouraged many former residents to return. Susan Wong, after retiring from the UK, came back to Lai Chi Wo in 2019 with her 103-year-old father. “I’m very happy because I love this village,” she says. Together, they now manage a small organic farm, growing a variety of crops, including mandarin oranges, lemons, and vegetables.

The project has also introduced new crops like coffee, grown in the shade to preserve the surrounding forest. With over 700 coffee plants now spread across several farms, Lai Chi Wo has become Hong Kong’s largest coffee-producing region, an unexpected agricultural success.

Revitalization Beyond the Village

Lai Chi Wo’s transformation is not just about restoring buildings and farms. It’s also about integrating modern farming techniques with traditional practices. The University of Hong Kong has partnered with local farmers to experiment with agroforestry and value-added products such as pickles, jams, and seasonal delicacies like radish cake. These products are sold at local farmers’ markets and through supermarkets, helping to support the community’s economic growth.

While Lai Chi Wo’s economic sustainability remains a challenge — largely due to the small-scale nature of farming — the village has become a model of sustainable revitalization. “The village may not be financially independent, but as long as people are living here and making a living, it is viable for those individual households,” says Ryan Siu Him Leung, senior project officer at the University of Hong Kong.

Challenges and Future Outlook

Despite the project’s successes, it hasn’t been without its difficulties. Some original villagers have expressed concerns about being excluded from the redevelopment process, and the village still relies on external funding, including government subsidies. Farming on a small scale is not always profitable, so many residents, like Tsang, have diversified their income streams, working remotely or in creative industries.

However, Lai Chi Wo’s story is a beacon of hope, proving that a harmonious relationship between nature and community can be restored. The project has even caught the attention of UNESCO, which recognized it in 2020 for its efforts in cultural heritage conservation and sustainable development.

Lai Chi Wo’s revitalization has inspired the Forest Village Project, launched in 2024, which aims to apply the lessons learned from Lai Chi Wo to neighboring villages, Mui Tsz Lam and Kop Tong. These smaller hamlets, with their own feng shui woodlands and diverse ecosystems, hold potential for eco-tourism and sustainable development, creating a network of revitalized villages.

“We hope to build a more comprehensive region of revitalized villages that can become a bigger attraction to the Hong Kong community,” says Leung.

Lai Chi Wo is not just a village coming back to life — it’s a model for sustainable community development, preserving heritage, protecting nature, and fostering a harmonious future.

Source

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